New tint? Leave it alone for a bit.

The first few days

Don't roll the windows down. This is the whole list, really. Film is applied with a slip solution and needs time to bond to the glass; rolling a window down before it has cured can peel the edge of the film straight off the top. Give it a few days — longer in cold or damp weather, since curing is really just moisture evaporating.

Expect haze and small water pockets. Cloudiness, tiny bubbles, or a faint milky look between the film and the glass is trapped moisture on its way out. It clears on its own. Don't press it, don't poke it, and definitely don't try to squeegee it yourself.

Don't clean the inside of the glass yet. Wait until it's fully cured before anything touches the film.

Cleaning tinted glass, forever after

• No ammonia. Standard blue glass cleaner is ammonia-based, and ammonia breaks down film adhesive and dye over time. Use an ammonia-free glass cleaner, or plain water with a drop of mild soap.
• Soft microfibre only. No paper towels, no abrasive pads, nothing with grit. The film is on the inside face of the glass and it scratches.
• Careful around rear defroster lines. Wipe along them, not across them.
• Watch what else touches it. Seat belts snapping back, cargo shifting, dog claws — the inside face is the vulnerable one.

What good film should and shouldn't do over time

Quality ceramic film holds its colour and stays put. What you should not see is purpling, bubbling across the middle of a pane, or edges lifting — those are the failure modes of cheap dyed film, not of a good install. If you see them on tint we installed, bring it back.

Tint and wraps live together fine

Washing a wrapped, tinted vehicle is easy: hand wash, no high-pressure jets held close to the edges of either the vinyl or the film, no automatic brushes. Our wrap care guide covers the outside; this covers the inside. Between them, the vehicle keeps looking new.

Questions about a job we did? Get in touch — we'd rather hear about it early.